Shanghai Village plans to close in February

Shanghai Village, one of the longest operating restaurants in the area, has closed after being in business for 37 years. Unlike some of the recent closures in downtown Bethesda caused by the shutdown of the nearby Regal Cinemas, the owner, Kwok Cheung, is retiring after serving customers for almost four decades. Cheung announced his retirement in the summer of 2018, which caused some employees to leave their jobs at the restaurant to search for new employees. As his employees left, Cheung was forced to act as the restaurant’s lone host, server, busboy and bartender—in addition to cooking and managing the kitchen staff.

From the fairly-priced fare that was easy on the wallet to the delicious food that satisfied taste buds, Shanghai Village knew how to please their customers. The upscale Chinese dish offerings at Shanghai Village impressed restaurant goers for many years. As a very personable and hands-on owner, Cheung also made friends with other restaurant owners for more than 35 years—his neighbors on the avenue were Louisiana Express, Penang Malaysian Cuisine and the Bethesda Crab House. The restaurant business was in his blood: he loved seeing families and old friends enjoy his food and often found time to chat with them.

It was his close relationships with restaurant goers combined with the good food that made Shanghai Village a jewel among the many Asian restaurants in the area. The Peking Duck was a signature dish that attracted many customers, especially on Sundays, when families came to share and enjoy the dish. Between stints in the kitchen, Cheung, a striking figure with a shock of silver hair, would make his way among the tables, chatting with and checking on his customers. For a large party celebrating a birthday nearby, he would ceremoniously carve and serve a Peking duck then return later with birthday cake.

While leaving the restaurant, people who ate at the restaurant would receive Cheung’s business card which cited an ancient Chinese poem: “Tomorrow and tomorrow: how many tomorrows are there anyway? If one always waits for tomorrow to do his work, then he accomplishes nothing in his lifetime!” This is a concept that Cheung has embodied during his time at Shanghai Village.

Article by MoCo Student Staff writer Dhruv Pai of Montgomery Blair High School